Mga Kwento sa Kusina… Stories from the Kitchen.

Tapa in itself will make you go around the Philippines.

In Batangas they have tapang taal, made from pork. Then you have tapang kabayo — mostly in places in Luzon like Malabon — where horse meat is used instead of beef. Durning my stay in Davao City a frequent place we visited was Sara’s Carenderia, known for their kabaw which is finely shredded Carabao (water buffalo) meat tapa, which they serve along side balbacua. A combination like no other.

And then of course you have all the beef tapa places. You have Tapsi ni Vivian, claimed to be the best tapa and tapsilog place in Manila. You have Don Galo’s tapahan, also claiming to be the best. But hidden in the market of San Andres in Leveriza, Manila, is Auring’s. A butcher selling Batangas beef — and home of one of the best tapas I have ever eaten.

Tapa is one of those dishes that every Filipino carries with them wherever they go. It is not just food. It is a morning ritual. It is the smell of something caramelising in a pan while the rice cooker hisses in the background. It’s the aroma of garlic getting toasted. It is that perfect sunny side up egg with the yolk still runny, a pile of garlic fried rice, a splash of vinegar on the side. It is tapsilog — tapa, sinangag, itlog — one of the great breakfast combinations of the world. And the best part you can have anytime of the day.

Today I was at Springvale Market again, seeing my butcher for a few things I needed. He had some nicely cut marbled porterhouse — not graded, but it looked beautiful. Nice and fatty, with good marbling running through it. And right there in the market I thought — tapa.

This is my version. I call it Miguel’s Tapang San Andres — a tribute to Auring’s, to that market in Leveriza, and to every plate of tapsilog I have ever eaten that tasted like home.

Miguel’s Tapang San Andres

Serves 6 to 8

1.5 kg beef porterhouse, cut into thin slices
10 gms salt
15 gms cracked black pepper
50 gms raw sugar
20 gms smoked paprika
8 cloves garlic, crushed and minced
60 ml soy sauce

To serve: garlic fried rice, sunny side up eggs, sliced tomatoes, sinamak or cane vinegar

Step 1 — Combine all the marinade ingredients in a large bowl or tray — the salt, pepper, raw sugar, smoked paprika, garlic and soy sauce. Add the beef slices and mix well with your hands until every piece is thoroughly coated. Cover and refrigerate for a minimum of 4 hours, or overnight for the best result. The longer it marinates, the deeper the flavour.

Step 2 — When ready to cook, heat a heavy pan, put in 2 parts of water and 1 part of oil. You want the tapa to sort of stew first before you give the tapa its caramelised edges. Cook the beef and simmer it until the water evaporates and you are left with the oil and fat from the beef. Let it sear and caramelise in its own fat and juices until the edges are dark and sticky and the sugar has done its job.

Step 3 — In a separate pan, fry your eggs sunny side up in hot oil. The edges should be crispy, the yolk still runny. This is non-negotiable.

Step 4 — Serve the tapa alongside garlic fried rice and your sunny side up eggs. Add sliced tomatoes on the side. Put the sinamak or cane vinegar on the table. That is your tapsilog. That is breakfast. Or lunch, merienda, or dinner

*The smoked paprika is my addition — it gives the tapa a subtle depth that works beautifully with the marbled porterhouse. If you want to be more traditional, leave it out. Either way, use the best beef you can find and let it marinate properly. Time is the secret ingredient here.

Happy Cooking and always remember to cook with your Heart…