Every year for the past 10 years I spend about 6-7 weeks in Manila. A place that even after 25 years of living abroad I still call HOME. And with every trip I make each year  I would always tell myself, “I’m going to write about the food of the Philippines”. But somewhere in between friends and family, cooking demos and competitions, street food and San Miguel Beer, the idea always gets lost. So now sitting in the airport lounge waiting for my delayed flight, I again start to think I should start it this trip. So again i scribble.

Where do I start? How do I start? Filipino food is in one way or another connected to the history of the Philippines. Hence the different flavors that surround the food. it’s like going trough an international buffet and putting everything in one plate.  Each region, each province, each barrio, each family have their own version of traditional dishes. While some dishes are specific to some places due to cultural heritage or availability of ingredients. Some are easy to fall in love with and others require an acquired taste teamed with an adventurous spirit. There are a few that are non traditional but became a house hold name.

Call for boarding… writing interrupted…

Then on the plane to Manila form Melbourne; I was given the menu for our inflight meals. And on the overleaf page it read, “We at Philippine Airlines are proud to serve you food that represents the best of the Philippines…” so on and so on, just see the picture. Hahaha. Inspiring I though,  it’s a sign for the friendly skies that I should really do it now. I will write about all of it during this trip. I had nothing really planned except for the Culinary Cup and a bit of personal errands here ands there. So I pulled my pen from my shirt pocket and started writing a list of places, restaurants, food and things that I might want to visit, try and write about. It was a long list in the end, but I was determined to make it happen this time.

The Culinary Cup happened and thats a different story all together. Now the adventure begins.

First on my list and about 2 hours drive (depending on the mood of the traffic) south of Manila, is the province of Batangas. Know for its fan knives (the balisong), locally grown coffee (the barako coffee) and its cuisine.

I decided to start my food adventure here due to geographical reasons and childhood memories of the place, and the expectations of making new ones during this food trip trip…

BATANGAS

Me and my companion left the hotel shortly after 9 in the morning, having a very light bite knowing that we would be snacking and snacking and snacking along the way. It was a Sunday, and because it was, the drive wasn’t that bad. Stop and go until the first toll gate past Magallanes, then it was smooth all the way. A small coffee stop at the Shell station then forward on. Thanks to the new Star Toll, it made our trip even faster. At about half past ten we exited right towards the City of Tanauan, in Batangas.

Upon merging from the motorway into the road that leads into the town you will see shanties/stalls of fruit vendors left and right. Corn, Coconuts, Mangoes (green and ripe), Pineapples, Watermelons, Dragon Fruits and a lot more, both local and imported fruits give color to the scenery like oil on canvass. We did not have enough time to stop and shop, only a few minutes to take a few clicks on my mobile, so we said we would definitely to it on our way back.

The weather and the drive were going well; a bit of daredevil tricycle (local equivalent to the auto rickshaws of other Asian countries) drivers every now and then but nothing like the crazy jeepny, taxi and bus drivers in the ever chaotic traffic conditions in the capital. Our first real stop for food apart from the 7 Eleven store was at this place in the town of Talisay, called Milan’s Native Foods and Grill.

The place is very visible and accessible with on street parking along the main Talisay highway. When coming from Manila, it will be on your left hand side. A quick google check and we were decided. Four Square users rated it 7.7/10 and TripAdvisor gave it 4/5 so looks like it was worth going in and trying what is on offer. They have an al fresco dining area and an enclosed air-conditioned dining area. We didn’t quite feel like eating outside so ac dining it is. There was a short queue to be seated and to think it was still a bit early for lunch. The wait staff all seemed to be friendly and very hospitable and prompt to suggest their best sellers and specials. 15 minutes later and our table was ready.

Menu was given but we’ll take their word for it and order what they suggested earlier. A feast is about to be served.

The Maliputo fish, according to an article in Batangas-Philippines.com, is a member of the Giant Trevally family, is caught inside Taal Lake. Often referred to as the maliptong loob. They offered it either grilled or sinigang (cooked in a broth infused with tamarind to give it that distinct sour flavor), we went for grilled cause we had another soup in mind.

So since soup was mentioned, what is a visit to Batangas with out having Bulalo? It is a light colored soup made by slow cooking beef shanks and marrowbones until they are tender. Flavored with onions, pepper and fish sauce then served with chopped cabbage. Patis (fish sauce), Bagoong Balayan (fermented anchovies), Calamsi (native citrus fruit similar to lime) and Siling labuyo (local birds eye chili variety) are some of the best accompaniments to this dish.

We also ordered the Pinakbet (a vegetable medley consisting of okra, beans, eggplant and pumpkin in coconut milk), Inihaw na Pusit (grilled stuffed squid), Ginisang Kang Kong (sautéed water spinach), Pork Liempo (grilled pork belly) and the Lechon Manok (roasted chicken). We wanted to try the Tawilis (deep fried fresh water sardines) but unfortunately it was 86’s that day.

Our food was served and what a feast for the senses it was. Just before the food got devoured, I noticed something on display in the front counter, I started pointing to it with excitement for my companion to notice. Back Fat Chicharon (pork crackling made from pork rinds from the back part of the pig making it layered with meat and not just skin), so I quickly ordered 3 packs of it. 1 to have with our meal and the other 2 to go for  our snacking on the road.

The food was affordable considering the serving sizes. It was easily sharable between 3-4 people (or 2 if you have an appetite like us). No fuss, no frills just good Filipino food  served in a friendly atmosphere. A must try!!!

 

BULALO

1.5 kilos beef shanks, bone-in

2.5lts. (10 cups) water

half a star anise

2 pcs. bay leaf

1 medium onion, peeled and quartered

30mls. (2 tablespoons) fish sauce

10gms. (1 tablespoon) peppercorns

15gms. (1.5 tablespoons) salt

1 green cabbage, leaves separated and chopped

1 green onion/spring onion, cut into 3

 

Step 1 – In a large pot over medium heat, bring water to cover meat into a boil. Add beef shanks and continue to boil for about 15 minutes, skimming scum that accumulates on top. Remove meat from water and wash under cold water to remove impurities. Discard liquid and rinse pot.

Step 2 – Using the same pot, return meat and add 10 cups of water to cover. Bring to a boil, skimming scum that accumulates on top. When the broth has cleared, add onions, star anise, bay leaf, fish sauce and peppercorns.

Step 3 – Lower heat to low, cover and cook at a bare simmer for about 3 hours or until meat is fork tender.

Step 4 – Season with salt to taste. Add the cabbage and green onions and cook for about 2 to 3 minutes or until vegetables are tender yet crisp. Serve hot dipping sauce of choice.

Happy Cooking and remember always cook with your HEART…

More about my food tripping when we continue…